Which Side to Sit on the Bernina Express (and Can You Choose)?
You cannot book a side on the Bernina Express. Most guides suggest the right side to Tirano and the left side back. What each side sees, plus photo tips.
You cannot choose. The Rhaetian Railway says seat side and direction of travel cannot be booked, because coaches can be added at either end of the train. If you do get a pick of free seats, most guides suggest the right-hand side going south from St. Moritz to Tirano and the left-hand side going north. Not everyone agrees.
On the red regional train the bigger win is an opening window. On the panoramic Bernina Express it is dodging reflections on the glass.
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What RhB says about seat sides
The Rhaetian Railway (RhB) answers the question directly in its FAQ: you cannot book seats facing the direction of travel or on a specific side. Coaches can be coupled at either end of a train, so even RhB does not know in advance which way your coach will face. Its one piece of seating advice is for groups, who can reserve seats opposite each other.
That applies to both trains on the line:
- The Bernina Express needs a paid seat reservation on top of the ticket. It gives you a seat in a panoramic coach, not a side.
- The red regional trains take an optional reservation at CHF 5 per person and route. RhB says individual reservations cannot be made for April 2027. Without one, you sit where you find space.
Online reservations cannot be changed or cancelled, so it makes no sense to rebook in the hope of a better side. For a better chance of a good window on an unreserved regional train, travel Monday to Thursday, which RhB says are quieter, and be on the platform early. The seat reservation guide explains what each reservation costs and covers, and Bernina Express tickets compares official and reseller options.
Right or left: what most guides suggest
The common advice, repeated by rail guides and traveler forums, is:
| Direction | Suggested side |
|---|---|
| Southbound, St. Moritz or Chur → Tirano | Right-hand side |
| Northbound, Tirano → St. Moritz or Chur | Left-hand side |
Both point at the same side of the track. The reason usually given is the glaciers: the Morteratsch glacier valley near the Montebello curve and the Palü glacier seen from Alp Grüm, with one source saying the glacier views past Ospizio Bernina are best on the right going south.
There is real dissent. One reply in a long forum thread says it makes little difference, because the line curves, loops and switches back so often that both sides get their turn. A booking site claims the Brusio spiral viaduct shows best from the right, but the train circles that viaduct, so treat the claim with caution. On the Bernina Express the glass curves up into the roof, which gives the aisle seat a decent view too.
Take the right side going south if you can get it, and do not worry if you cannot. The route map guide lists every landmark in order, so you know when to move to a free window.
What you see, section by section
Here is the Bernina line from St. Moritz to Tirano, with the side notes that guides give. Northbound, read it from the bottom.
| Section | What to watch | Side notes |
|---|---|---|
| St. Moritz to Pontresina | The Engadin valley floor | Settle in and set up the camera |
| Morteratsch and the Montebello curve | The glacier valley, then the curve where track meets pass road | The main reason guides favor the right side southbound |
| Bernina Diavolezza to Ospizio Bernina | The high plateau and Lago Bianco at 2,253 m | Lakes and snowfields; curves give both sides views |
| Alp Grüm | The Palü glacier and the drop toward Val Poschiavo | Often cited for the right side southbound |
| Cavaglia to Poschiavo | A long descent through tight curves | The view swings from side to side |
| Brusio spiral viaduct | The train loops round and under itself | Both sides see it at some point |
| Into Tirano | The line is reported to run at street level for its last stretch | Town on both sides |
Chur-based trains add the Albula line first, with the Landwasser Viaduct near Filisur. Side advice for that section is thin and contradictory, so treat it as luck. Chur to Tirano on the Bernina Express covers the full route.
Open windows or panoramic glass
The two trains give you different problems. The Bernina Express has large panoramic windows that curve into the roof, and they do not open. Travelers report glare and reflections on the glass, especially with sun on one side. One rail guide mentions a small opening window in the luggage area of each panoramic coach, but you would share it with everyone else.
The regional red trains have classic windows that can be opened, which is why photographers like them and why most Milan day trips sell them on that point. You cannot count on an opening window at every seat on every train, though, since the coaches vary. Our Bernina Express vs regional train guide sets out the full trade-off, and the first vs second class guide covers the seating layouts.
Photo tips for both trains
Behind glass:
- Put the lens right against the window to cut reflections, and wear dark clothing, which reflects less.
- Turn the flash off and wipe the glass with a soft cloth before the climb starts.
- Shoot at an angle to the sun, not straight into it.
At an open window:
- Keep your arms and camera inside the frame. Tunnels and poles arrive fast.
- Use a wrist strap and keep the lens cap in a pocket. The wind is cold at 2,253 m, even in summer.
- Have the camera ready before the Montebello curve, Alp Grüm and Brusio, the three moments most people want.
Light matters as much as the side. In winter the afternoon departures from St. Moritz reach the high section near dusk, so a morning train gives you more daylight; the timetable guide lists them. Weather in the mountains changes quickly, and no seat promises a clear view.
How the tours seat you
Tours cannot pick a side either, but they do decide whether you have a seat at all.
| Tour | Train and direction | Seating |
|---|---|---|
| Milan: Bernina red train and St. Moritz tour | Regional red train, Tirano → St. Moritz | Reserved carriage for the group, a seat for everyone, seats not individually assigned |
| Milan: St. Moritz and panoramic Bernina Express tour | Bernina Express, St. Moritz → Tirano | Guaranteed panoramic coach on the panoramic option, seats not assigned |
| Milan: St. Moritz and Bernina or Albula red train | Regional | Seats cannot be reserved in advance |
| Tirano to St. Moritz red train ticket | Regional, ticket only | Seats not reserved, use any free seat |
The featured Vaxvi tour (our breakdown) costs from $128 per person, is rated 4.7 from 460+ reviews and runs about 13 hours, with pickups in Milan, Bergamo and Lecco. Its reserved carriage means nobody in the group stands, and you ride north with windows that open, so the left side is the one to aim for. Inside the carriage it is first come, first served.
The Frigerio panoramic option (our breakdown) costs from $186 and rides south, so the right side is the one to aim for there. Compare every format in Bernina red train from Milan.
Frequently asked questions
Can you choose which side to sit on the Bernina Express?
No. RhB says you cannot book a side or the direction of travel, because coaches can be added at either end of the train. A reservation gets you a seat, and the side is luck.
Which side is best from St. Moritz to Tirano?
Most guides suggest the right-hand side going south, mainly for the glacier views around Morteratsch and Alp Grüm. Some travelers say the curves give both sides plenty, so do not pay extra or rebook for it.
Which side is best from Tirano to St. Moritz?
The left-hand side, according to the same guides. It is the same side of the track as the right side southbound.
Can you open the windows on the Bernina Express?
Not on the panoramic Bernina Express, whose windows are fixed. The red regional trains on the same line have classic windows that can be opened, which is why many day trips from Milan use them.
Do you need a seat reservation on the Bernina red train?
No. It is optional and costs CHF 5 per person and route, and RhB says individual reservations are not available for April 2027. Without one you take any free seat, so arrive early on busy days.
Check Which Train Your Tour Actually Uses
Most day trips from Milan ride the regional red train in 2nd class. Only some options guarantee a seat in the panoramic Bernina Express coaches.
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